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When the Mamluks raised Tripoli in 1289 the Crusader castle was burned
out and was not habitable as a garrison center until it was restored by the naib of
Tripoli, Emir Esendemir al-Kurji in 1308. So a barracks composed of three large buildings
was built in the newly founded Mamluk city for the Sultan troops. The Khan al-Askar or
"Soldiers Khan" was so well built that, with repairs, it was used by
successive Ottoman and French forces down to modern times. The two northern buildings,
entered from the northeast and northwest respectively, are separated from the southern
building by a narrow alley. However, these edifices have been plastered and restored so
often that they are impressive today only by their size.
The courtyards of the Khan are surrounded by pointed Mamluk arches and the main portals
display Mamluk decorative motifs. Just inside the main front northeast entrance is a
pointed arch gate, now walled up and forming only an alcove. The arch is flanked by two
engaged columns, a fine example of Mamluk ornamentation. In back of the main Khan, half
way down the narrow alley which separates it from the south building is another sculptured
facade which has survived to our day. Inside the walled-up arch are carved stalactite and
palm-leaf motifs.
The Khan al-Manzil was also built about 1309 by Esendemir al-Kurji. It displayed an ornate
portal characteristic of early fourteenth century Mamluk style and craftsmanship used in
Tripoli. Following the 1955 flood, the Khan was filled with debris and mud. It was
subsequently decided to clear the right bank of Abou-Ali for a riverside street and the
Khan was lifted, stone by stone, for the purpose of rebuilding it on another site. It is
the finest example of a caravanersai which exists in Lebanon today.
One block distant from the al-Attar Mosque is an old Khan in a very poor
state of conservation. Called the as-Shawish, it displays an old portal with remnants of
machicolation. Within, built into the passage wall, is a Byzantine column section with
twisted fluting, the only one known to exist in Tripoli.
In the neighborhood of the Ezzedin baths there are two fourteenth century Mamluk khans
facing each other. The Tailor khan which adjoins the baths on the north., built in
1341. Its street stalls and storehouses until this day house the dry goods merchants and
tailors of modern Tripoli. The Tailor khan is a 60 yard long passageway with tall
graceful arches on each side and ten transverse arches open to the sky. At the entrance an
engaged Corinthian column is built in the brown sandstone wall and may be a Crusader
Church pilaster with a re-used marble capital. There are other Roman granite column
sections built into the walls in the vicinity.
The Egyptian Khan (al-Misriyin), so called probably because it was built by Egyptian
Mamluks, is a conventional arcade two story khan around an open courtyard with a fountain
pool in the center. The khan is mentioned in an inscription, an extract of the foundation
act of Saif ed-Din Aqturaq, the Chamberlain dated 1359, found in the al-Saqraqiya madrasah
of Tripoli.
Soap Khan
One of the most notable facets of historical Tripoli, still in use today. There are
several khans in the souks. Kh`an-as-S`aboun built at the beginning of the seventieth
century. Originally it was intended to serve as a military barracks to garrison
Ottoman troops and it was purposely built in the center of the city to enable the pasha to
control any uprising. It is a large imposing rectangular structure with two story arcade
corridors running around a fountain courtyard. The outer walls had a number of loopholes
and arrow slits for defense purposes. In front of the building was an arched portal,
flanked by stone benches for the pashas guards. A white marble plaque commemorates
the building of this splendid military barracks of Tripoli. The battle of Anjar Tripoli
fell to Fakhr-ed-Din, the Ottoman garrison fled to join his routed forces in Syria. The
army of Fakhr-ed-Din occupied the barracks briefly, but also in the years that followed
the building stood empty and useless.
To the inhabitants of Tripoli this seemed to be a great waste so a petition was sent to
the residence of Fakhr-ed-Din, with the request to turn the building into a soap factory
and warehouse. From that day until the present time the Ottoman barracks have served as
Tripolis flourishing Soap Khan or Khan as-Saboun.
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